Aviary Wire Mesh for Chicken Runs: Gauges, Apertures and How to Buy the Right Amount

For most chicken runs, 19 gauge welded aviary mesh with a 25mm aperture is the right starting point. If rats are a genuine problem on your plot, you need to step down to a 13mm aperture. No other change will fix it. Our guide to chicken wire vs aviary wire covers the fundamental difference between the two mesh types. This article picks up where that one leaves off: it is a practical buying guide for keepers who have already decided on aviary mesh and need to know exactly which specification to order, how much to buy, and how to fit it properly.

What Wire Gauge Do I Need for a Chicken Run?

Wire gauge is the first number you will encounter when browsing aviary mesh, and it works in a way that catches people out. The higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire. So 19 gauge wire is thinner than 16 gauge wire. This is counterintuitive, but it matters when you are choosing mesh for security.

The common gauges work differently in practice.

19 gauge is the standard specification and the right choice for most backyard chicken runs. It is strong enough to keep foxes out, reasonably easy to work with, and widely available in roll form. This is the specification we use as standard on the Deluxe range of runs and coops. If you are buying mesh to repair or extend an existing run, 19g is almost always the right match.

16 gauge is the heavy-duty option. The wire is noticeably thicker and the mesh holds its shape under pressure significantly better than 19g. It is appropriate when you have persistent fox pressure (a fox that has learned to test a run regularly and probe for weaknesses), or when you have a large flock and want the additional peace of mind. It is harder to cut and more expensive per roll, but for keepers who need that extra margin, it is worth it.

Below 16 gauge means thicker wire still. This is used in industrial or agricultural contexts and is overkill for domestic chicken keeping. Standard tools will not cope with anything below 16 gauge. It adds cost without any real benefit at a domestic flock scale.

Wire gauge tells you wire thickness only. It says nothing about the size of the holes between the wires. Both measurements matter, and they address different problems.

What Aperture Size Should I Choose?

Aperture is the size of the gaps between the wires, or what most people think of as the "hole size" in the mesh. This is the specification that determines which predators the mesh can exclude.

25mm aperture is the standard for chicken runs. The gaps are large enough to allow air circulation and visibility, but too small for a fox to push its head or body through. Most aviary mesh rolls sold for chicken keeping use a 25mm aperture. It will keep foxes out, but it will not keep rats out. Rats can pass through a 25mm gap without difficulty.

13mm aperture (half-inch mesh) is the specification you need if rats are a serious problem. The smaller gaps exclude both foxes and rats. The mesh is heavier to work with, costs more per roll, and is harder on cutting tools, but it is the only reliable way to use mesh as a physical barrier against rats. If you have seen evidence of rats around your run or nearby, use this specification on the lower sections of the run at minimum.

50mm aperture and above is not suitable for chicken keeping at all. The gaps are large enough for a fox to reach through and grip a hen, which is a serious welfare risk as well as a security failure. You will sometimes see this gauge sold as garden netting or crop protection mesh. It has no place on a chicken run.

The most common specification mistake we see is keepers buying 19g mesh with 25mm apertures and then wondering why they have a rat problem. Fox exclusion and rat exclusion need different specifications.

What each aperture excludes

What Is the Difference Between Welded and Woven Aviary Mesh?

Welded aviary mesh is manufactured by welding the wires together at every intersection point. This gives it structural integrity that woven or twisted hexagonal wire does not have. If you cut welded mesh, the surrounding structure holds. If a fox or rat puts sustained pressure on it, the mesh holds its shape.

Woven hexagonal wire (what most people picture when they hear "chicken wire") is cheaper and lighter, but it is not suitable for security applications. The wires are twisted together at the intersections rather than fused. Under pressure, those intersections can separate, and a determined fox can tear through woven hexagonal wire. Individual wires pull apart at the joints if the mesh is cut or under repeated stress.

The chicken wire vs aviary wire article covers this distinction in full if you want more detail. The short version: for any application where keeping predators out matters, use welded aviary mesh.

How to Calculate How Much Mesh You Need

Buying too little means a wasted trip or a delayed project. Buying too much wastes money. A simple calculation gives you a reliable figure.

Step one: Measure the total perimeter of your run in metres. Add up all four sides (or however many sides your run has if it is not a rectangle).

Step two: Multiply the perimeter by the height of mesh you need. If you are covering the sides of the run only, that is usually 1.2m to 1.8m. If you are also covering the top, add that area separately.

Step three: Add 20% to the total. This accounts for overlaps at joins, cutting waste and any measurement error.

Worked example: A run measuring 4m by 3m, with 1.5m high sides.

• Perimeter: 4 + 3 + 4 + 3 = 14 metres
• Total mesh area: 14m x 1.5m = 21 square metres
• With 20% added: 21 x 1.2 = 25.2 square metres

Round up to the next available roll length when ordering. It is far better to have a short offcut left over than to run short partway through a job.

How Do I Cut Aviary Wire Mesh Cleanly?

Aviary wire mesh is not difficult to cut, but the right tool makes a real difference. A cheap pair of wire cutters will barely dent 16g welded mesh. Bolt croppers make the job straightforward, so it is worth borrowing a pair if you do not own them.

For 19g mesh, good-quality wire cutters with hardened jaws will do the job, but the handles take more effort than you expect. Budget wire cutters or standard scissors will not cut cleanly and will damage the wire ends rather than shearing through them.

A few things are worth knowing before you start:

• Cut from the end of the roll where possible, rather than mid-roll. It is easier to keep your line straight and to handle the mesh as you go.
• Mark your cut line with a permanent marker or a length of masking tape before you start. Aviary mesh is harder to cut accurately freehand than it looks.
• Once cut, fold the cut wire ends back on themselves using pliers. Freshly cut 19g or 16g wire ends are sharp and can catch skin or puncture gloves. Folding them back takes ten seconds and avoids the problem.

How Do I Fix Aviary Mesh to a Timber or Metal Frame?

How you fix the mesh depends on the frame material.

Timber frames: A heavy-duty staple gun is the quickest and most reliable fixing method. Use staples rated for fencing or wire work rather than standard office staples. The wire in the staple needs to be thick enough to grip the mesh firmly. Space staples every 100 to 150mm along the frame members. Along the bottom edge of the run, closer spacing is worth doing, as this is where foxes typically apply the most pressure.

Metal frames: J-clips are the recommended fixing for metal runs. They are small metal clips applied with a J-clip plier tool, and they grip the mesh firmly to a metal frame member without rust points. Cable ties work as a temporary fix and are useful for holding mesh in position while you work, but they are not a long-term solution. UV degrades them over time and they can be bitten through.

Wherever two panels of mesh meet, overlap them by at least 50mm. Butt-jointed edges with no overlap leave a weak point that a fox will find and test. Do not leave any unsecured or loose edge sections. Foxes probe runs methodically and will exploit any section of mesh that moves or has give.

Should I Bury Wire Mesh Around a Chicken Run?

A fox that cannot get over or through a run will try to go under it. The buried skirt is the step most keepers skip and then regret.

A predator skirt is an L-shaped extension of mesh laid at the base of the run, designed to stop foxes and rats from digging under the perimeter. It is one of the most effective security upgrades you can make to a ground-level run, and it requires nothing more than an extra strip of mesh and some digging.

Method one is a buried skirt:

1. Dig a trench around the outside of the run, 30cm deep and roughly 30cm wide.
2. Lay the mesh in an L-shape: 30cm running down into the trench, and 30cm running outward along the trench floor.
3. Backfill the trench and tamp it down.

A fox digging at the base of the run hits mesh immediately and cannot dig around it because the horizontal section extends outward from the dig point.

Method two is a surface skirt:

If digging is not practical, lay a 30-40cm wide strip of mesh flat on the ground running outward from the base of the run. Pin it firmly with ground anchors or tent pegs, then cover with turf, soil, gravel or paving slabs. The effect is the same: any animal trying to dig in hits mesh within a few centimetres.

For a full guide to fox-proofing a run and coop, including door latches, pop hole security and roof coverage, see our fox-proofing guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

What gauge aviary mesh do I need for a chicken run?

For most backyard chicken runs, 19 gauge welded aviary mesh is the right choice. It is strong enough to exclude foxes and most other predators, and it is straightforward to cut and fix. If you have persistent fox pressure or a particularly large flock, 16 gauge is the heavy-duty alternative. Both are available in our wire aviary mesh collection.

What aperture size keeps foxes out?

A 25mm aperture is sufficient to exclude foxes. The gap is too small for a fox to push through or get significant leverage against. Bear in mind that 25mm will not keep rats out. If rats are a problem on your site, you need a 13mm aperture, at least on the lower sections of the run. Our guide to rats and chickens covers the full picture on rat-proofing.

How do I fix aviary mesh to a metal frame?

J-clips applied with a J-clip plier are the most secure fixing for metal frame runs. Space them every 100-150mm along frame members and closer together along the base. Cable ties are useful for holding panels in position temporarily, but are not a long-term substitute for proper clips. If you are looking at metal chicken runs with mesh already fitted, our metal runs collection shows what a properly constructed welded mesh run looks like.

Should I bury wire mesh around a chicken run?

Yes, if your run sits on bare ground. Burying a predator skirt is one of the most effective things you can do to prevent foxes and rats from digging under the run perimeter. Lay the mesh in an L-shape: 30cm down into a trench and 30cm outward along the trench floor. Backfill. If digging is not practical, a surface skirt pinned flat and covered with turf or gravel achieves the same result.

Choosing the right aviary mesh comes down to two numbers: the gauge and the aperture. Get both right for your situation and the rest of the job, cutting, fixing, calculating quantities, is straightforward. Browse our full range of wire aviary mesh rolls, available in both 19 gauge and 16 gauge, with 25mm and 13mm aperture options to suit every keeper's needs.