Chicken Wire vs Aviary Wire – What’s the Difference?

If there were an award for the most misleading product name in agriculture, "chicken wire" would take the gold medal every time.

To the uninitiated, it sounds like the obvious choice. You get some chickens, you buy some chicken wire, and everyone lives happily ever after. It is a logical assumption that has led thousands of new keepers astray. After all, the clue is in the name, isn't it?

But here in the real world—where the British weather oscillates between "damp" and "disastrous," and where a determined fox views your coop as a puzzle to be solved—relying on that lightweight, hexagonal mesh is a gamble you really don't want to take.

Many new keepers assume that both materials offer the same level of protection. Unfortunately, if you rely on standard chicken wire to protect your flock overnight, you might wake up to heartbreak.

If you want to sleep soundly while the wind howls outside, you need to understand the fundamental difference between chicken wire and aviary wire. It’s not just a matter of semantics; it’s the difference between a garden fence and a predator-proof fortress.

This definitive guide will break down exactly why wire choice matters, how to decipher the technical jargon (gauges, apertures, and galvanisation), and why "belt and braces" is the only strategy that works against our clever UK wildlife.

What is the difference between chicken wire and aviary wire?

At first glance, standing in the aisle of a hardware store, they both look like metal mesh. However, the difference is structural and immense. Understanding this distinction is the key to choosing the best wire for chicken coops and runs.

Chicken Wire (Hex Netting)

Chicken wire is a thin, flexible hexagonal mesh used for light tasks. It is constructed by twisting thin wires together rather than welding them. Because of this twisted construction, it bends easily and shapes well around frames, which makes it popular for craft projects and light gardening. However, its flexibility is its fatal flaw when it comes to livestock. It is not designed as a primary predator barrier.

Aviary Wire (Welded Mesh)

Aviary wire is a heavier, welded mesh designed to stop predators. It is a grid of robust steel wires that are electrically welded at every single cross-section. This creates a solid, unyielding barrier. The mesh remains rigid and stable even after years outdoors.

The simple rule: Chicken wire keeps chickens in. Aviary wire keeps predators out.

If you only remember one thing from this guide, make it that. Chicken wire is useful for stopping your hens from destroying your flower beds, but it cannot stop a determined predator.

Comparison Table: At a Glance

If you are trying to decide which material to buy, use this comparison to understand the trade-offs.

The Predator Reality: What You Are Protecting Against

To keep your flock safe, you must protect them from the specific threats found in the UK. Wire choice shapes your flock’s safety. A safe run lasts longer, reduces stress for the birds, and limits the risk of night-time losses.

1. The Fox (The Chewer & Pinner)

Foxes are powerful, persistent animals. They don't just give up if they hit a fence; they test it. Foxes can tear chicken wire using their teeth. They grab the thin, twisted strands and pull, untwisting the metal until the hole is wide enough to squeeze through. Alternatively, they can apply enough body weight to simply stretch the gaps wide open. A run made with aviary wire or welded wire mesh can withstand far greater force, as the welded joints do not give way.

2. The Badger (The Brute Force)

While less agile than foxes, badgers possess immense strength. If a badger decides it wants into a run, it will use brute force to barge through. Flimsy chicken wire will simply buckle under a badger's charge. Only a rigid, strong-gauge aviary wire for chicken runs provides the structural integrity needed to withstand this kind of impact.

3. The Stoat, Mink & Rat (The Squeezers)

These are the ones new keepers often forget. Members of the weasel family are fluid; if they can get their head through a hole, their body will follow. Standard chicken wire often has an aperture (hole size) of 25mm to 50mm. A stoat or a rat can slide straight through a 50mm hole. This allows vermin to steal feed or, worse, attack your birds. This is why the smaller, square aperture of aviary wire is critical for predator proof chicken wire setups.

Technical Specs: Deciphering the Jargon

When you start shopping for metal chicken runs or wire rolls, you’ll see numbers thrown around like "19g" or "1-inch aperture." It can feel like needing a degree in engineering just to build a coop. Let's simplify it.

1. The Gauge (Wire Thickness)

Gauge refers to the thickness of the steel wire. Confusingly, the scale runs backwards: the higher the number, the thinner the wire.

• 20g - 22g: This is the standard for chicken wire. It is thin, pliable, and easy to cut with kitchen scissors—which means a predator’s teeth can make short work of it.
• 19g (approx 1mm): This is the functional minimum for a secure run. It is commonly found on high-quality aviary wire and is strong enough to stop foxes, cats, and vermin.
• 16g (approx 1.6mm): This is the heavy-duty, "belt and braces" option. If you live in a rural area with active badgers or large dogs, this is the gauge to choose. It resists bending by hand and offers superior peace of mind.

2. The Aperture (Hole Size)

The size of the holes determines what can get in.

• 50mm (2 inches): Often found on chicken wire. This is too big for the lower half of a run. Rats and stoats will walk straight through.
• 25mm x 13mm (1" x ½") or 12mm x 12mm: This is the Gold Standard. Small apertures stop predators getting a jaw around the wire and prevent rats from squeezing in to steal food.

Our recommendation: For the ultimate protection, look for 19g (or 16g) welded mesh with a 25mm x 13mm aperture.

How to Identify Quality Wire

Not all wire is created equal. When you are assessing materials for your coop, use this checklist to ensure you are buying welded wire mesh for chickens that will actually last.

Check for:

• Even, firm welds: The grid should be uniform. If the welds look weak or messy, they will fail under pressure.
• Consistent galvanisation: The coating should be smooth and cover every part of the wire.
• Strong edges: Look for wire with finished edges and no loose strands that could injure your hens.
• The "bend test": A quality gauge should resist bending by hand. If you can crumple it like a crisp packet, it’s not strong enough for a fox.

The Chicken House Company selects durable, welfare-focused materials for our hen houses and chicken runs. Our structures use purpose-chosen mesh that withstands British weather and supports daily use.

Durability and The "British Weather" Factor

This is where we have to talk about the rain. Again.

Let’s face it, the UK isn’t famous for its sunshine. Since we can’t rely on the forecast, we have to rely on the wire.

A cheap mesh might survive a mild summer, but it will surrender to the endless grey drizzle and February storms that define our winters. For all-weather protection, chicken run covers help keep the run dry and reduce mud throughout the wet season.

Rust is the enemy. Once rust sets in, the wire becomes brittle, and a brittle wire is an open door to a predator. 

Galvanised vs. Hot-Dip Galvanised

Most wire is "galvanised," meaning it is coated in zinc to prevent rust. However, the application matters.

• Standard galvanised: Often used on chicken wire, this light coating provides short to moderate lifespan outdoors.
• Hot-dip galvanised: Aviary wire is often hot-dip galvanised for greater corrosion resistance. This process coats the steel after welding, sealing every joint against moisture.

This aligns with a sustainable approach to housing where materials last year after year. It is better to buy a quality run once than to replace a rusty, broken one every two years in the pouring rain.

Installation Tips for a Secure Run

Even the best aviary wire for chicken runs is useless if it isn't attached properly. Here are practical tips to ensure your installation is secure.

1. Ditch the Staples

Don't use standard fencing staples. They can pull out over time as the wood expands and contracts in the damp. Instead, use screws with washers or galvanised U-nails that are designed for heavy-duty use.

2. The Anti-Dig Skirt

Predators don't just go through; they go under. Foxes will dig if they can't bite. To stop them, create an "anti-dig skirt" or barrier. Bury a mesh skirt 20 to 30 cm into the soil around the perimeter. Alternatively, flare the mesh out across the surface of the ground and peg it down. Grass will grow through it, hiding it from view, but if a fox tries to dig, they will hit the mesh and give up. 

3. Check for Gaps

Check for gaps or lifted sections weekly. Even a small opening can be exploited by a weasel or rat.

4. Routine Maintenance

To extend the lifespan of your wire, clean dirt from the mesh during routine run cleaning. Ensure vegetation is trimmed back so moisture does not sit against the wire, which accelerates rusting. 

When to Use Chicken Wire (Yes, it still has a use!)

We have been tough on chicken wire, but it isn't useless. It just has a different job description. You should use chicken wire when:

• Internal separation: You need to separate birds inside an existing secure run.
• Garden protection: You want to create temporary barriers to protect plants from scratching hens.
• Compost guards: It is excellent for shaping light structures such as compost guards.
• Covering high windows: Use it for covering windows where no predators can reach, purely to keep wild birds out.

Just remember: It should never be the only barrier between your flock and the outside world.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which is stronger: chicken wire or aviary wire?

Aviary wire is significantly stronger. Its welded construction distributes pressure across the entire mesh, whereas chicken wire bends and stretches easily because each strand is woven rather than welded.

Is chicken wire safe for chicken runs?

Chicken wire is not safe as the main barrier for an outdoor run. It can be used inside a secure structure, but it cannot stop predators. Foxes and dogs can bite through or pull apart woven wire.

Can foxes break through chicken wire?

Yes. Foxes are powerful, persistent animals. They can tear chicken wire using their teeth or apply enough weight to widen the gaps.

What is the best wire for chicken coops?

The best wire for chicken coops is a strong, galvanised, welded mesh with a small aperture. Choose a 16 or 19 gauge mesh with an opening of 12 to 25 mm. This protects hens from foxes, rats, and weasels.

How long does galvanised aviary wire last?

A high-quality galvanised aviary mesh can last many years outdoors with minimal maintenance. Hot dip galvanised variants last longest because the zinc coating seals every joint.

The difference between chicken wire and aviary wire matters more than many keepers realise. It is the difference between hoping your flock is safe and knowing they are safe.

Chicken wire is a useful material for light tasks, but it cannot protect hens from predators. Aviary wire offers strength, stability, and long term durability, making it the safer choice for outdoor runs and coops.

Generations of British smallholders have relied on sturdy, welded mesh for a reason. It’s not just about wire; it’s about the peace of mind that comes from doing the job properly. For more information on poultry welfare, you can check the RSPCA's poultry welfare care & advice resource.