What Do Chickens Eat? A Complete Guide to Feed, Grit, Treats and Nutrition

What do chickens eat? The simple answer is layers pellets or mash as their everyday staple, supplemented with grit, and occasional treats on top. Get those three elements right and your hens will be well fed, healthy and laying consistently. This guide explains each one in detail, covers how much to feed, what to avoid and how to adjust your routine as the seasons change.

Layers pellets vs mash: what is the difference?

Layers pellets and mash are both complete feeds designed to give laying hens everything they need: protein, energy, vitamins and minerals in the right proportions for consistent egg production. They contain the same nutrients. The difference is in the form they come in and how your hens eat them.

Layers pellets are compressed into small cylindrical pieces. They are the most popular choice for backyard keepers and for good reason. They are easy to measure, easy to store, and because hens pick them up one at a time, there is very little waste. If you are feeding in a covered feeder or hanging feeder, pellets stay clean and dry well. For most backyard keepers, layers pellets are the straightforward choice.

Layers mash is finely ground and has a loose, almost floury texture. Some hens prefer it to pellets, particularly older birds or breeds with smaller beaks. Mash does scatter more easily and creates more waste if your hens eat from a shallow dish or scratch it out of a trough-style feeder. It is also quicker to spoil in damp conditions, so it needs to be stored carefully and fed in smaller quantities.

Where mash genuinely comes into its own is in cold weather. Mix it with a little warm water to make a warm, porridge-like consistency and your hens will eat it enthusiastically on a cold morning. It is also a useful way to encourage drinking.

Crumble sits between the two in terms of texture and is less commonly available in the UK. It can suit young pullets transitioning from chick crumb to adult feed, but for most keepers with laying hens it is not something you need to seek out.

Neither pellets nor mash is nutritionally superior to the other. Choose based on your hens' preference, your feeder type and your storage setup. Many keepers settle on pellets as a default and offer mash occasionally through the winter.

Mixed corn and grain: a treat, not a staple

Mixed corn, typically a blend of wheat and maize, is something most hens love. It is bright, crunchy and disappears quickly. It is also where a lot of well-meaning keepers go wrong.

Corn is significantly lower in protein than layers pellets and higher in carbohydrates and calories. If hens fill up on corn, they eat less of their complete feed, which means they get less of the protein and nutrients they need for egg production and general health. Over time, hens fed too much corn can become overweight, lay fewer eggs and be more prone to health problems.

It is easy to be generous with corn because hens clearly enjoy it. But corn is to chickens what biscuits are to us: enjoyable, but not a meal.

Used in the right way, though, mixed corn has a genuine role. A small handful scattered in the afternoon gives hens something to forage for, which is good for their mental stimulation and natural behaviour. In autumn and winter, corn is useful because it takes longer to digest than pellets, generating a small amount of body heat as it does. A scatter of corn before the hens go to bed on a cold evening is a reasonable winter habit.

The key word is small. A small handful across your whole flock in the afternoon, no more. Your layers pellets should still make up around 90% of what they eat.

Grit: why chickens cannot digest food without it

Chickens have no teeth. Instead of chewing, they swallow food whole and rely on their gizzard, a muscular organ in their digestive system, to grind it down. The gizzard does this grinding using small particles of grit that the hen has swallowed. Without grit, hens cannot properly break down their food, and nutrient absorption suffers.

There are two types of grit and they do different jobs. It is worth understanding both.

Insoluble grit (flint grit) is hard, angular grit that does not dissolve in the digestive system. It stays in the gizzard and acts as the grinding medium. This is the type that helps hens process their food. It should be available to your hens at all times.

Soluble grit (oyster shell or limestone flour) does dissolve in the digestive system and provides calcium, which laying hens need in significant quantities to produce strong eggshells. Without enough calcium, eggshells become thin or soft, and in the longer term the hen's own bone density can suffer as her body draws calcium from her skeleton.

Keep these two types available separately, not mixed together. If you mix them into the feed, hens cannot regulate how much of each they take. Keeping oyster shell topped up in a separate container lets each hen take what she needs without the others eating too much.

If your hens free-range, they will pick up some grit naturally from the ground, but free-ranging rarely provides enough, particularly for the calcium requirements of a hen in peak lay. Even hens with access to a large garden or field should have supplementary grit available.

For a full explanation of how grit works and when chicks need it, see our guide to chicken grit.

Safe treats vs foods to avoid

Treats are a natural part of chicken keeping and a good way to build a bond with your flock. The key is keeping treats to a small proportion of the overall diet and knowing which foods are genuinely safe.

Treats your hens will enjoy safely

• Mealworms: a high-protein favourite. Dried mealworms are widely available. Worth rationing, as they are very palatable and hens will prioritise them over their pellets if given too many.
• Sunflower seeds: good fat content, popular with most hens.
• Cooked rice: plain, cooled rice is a fine occasional treat. Not raw.
• Vegetables: cabbage, leafy greens, corn on the cob, cucumber. Hang a cabbage from a hook in the run to give hens something to peck at.
• Watermelon: useful in summer to help hens stay cool and hydrated. Most hens eat it enthusiastically, rind and all.
• Plain oats: fine in small amounts, useful in cold weather.

Foods to avoid

• Avocado: toxic to chickens. The flesh, skin and stone all contain persin, which can cause heart problems.
• Chocolate: toxic. Even small amounts can be harmful.
• Onions and garlic (in large quantities): small amounts of garlic are often used intentionally by keepers as a natural health supplement, but large quantities of onion can cause digestive problems and affect egg flavour.
• Raw or green potato: raw potato contains solanine, which is toxic to chickens. Cooked potato is generally fine.
• Rhubarb: toxic, the leaves.
• Heavily salted foods: too much salt is harmful. Avoid crisps, crackers and processed foods.
• Mouldy or rotting food: can carry harmful fungi and bacteria.

A note on UK law and kitchen scraps: UK regulations technically prohibit feeding kitchen scraps that have been prepared in a kitchen where meat has been handled. This covers most household kitchens. The rule exists to reduce disease risk rather than as a practical comment on vegetables or fruit. It is worth being aware of if you are feeding vegetables, cooked rice or other kitchen leftovers. Many keepers do it regardless, but it is the current regulatory position.

How much to feed your chickens

A laying hen needs around 120–150g of layers pellets per day. As a rough guide, a flock of six hens will get through roughly 750g to 900g of pellets daily. These figures assume pellets are their primary feed. If hens are free-ranging and supplementing their own diet with grass, insects and plant material, they will naturally eat slightly less.

There are two main approaches to feeding:

Ad-lib feeding means keeping feed available at all times in a covered feeder. Hens eat when they need to and self-regulate reasonably well on a complete feed. This is the simpler approach for most backyard keepers and avoids the risk of hens going hungry if you are away or your routine changes. The main consideration is that ad-lib feeding can attract wild birds and rodents if the feeder is not well designed or if feed spills.

Set feeding times means offering feed once or twice a day and removing any uneaten food. This gives you more control and can reduce pest attraction, but it requires a consistent routine. If you are away for a day, your hens need someone to feed them.

For most backyard keepers with a small flock, ad-lib feeding with a covered or treadle feeder is the practical choice. See our chicken feeders and drinkers range if you are looking for options that help manage waste and keep wild birds out.

How to Adjust Chicken Feed Through the Seasons

Your hens' nutritional needs shift across the year and it is worth adjusting your feeding routine to match.

Winter is the season that requires the most thought. Hens eat more in cold weather because they need more energy to maintain their body temperature. Continue feeding layers pellets as the staple. A small increase in mixed corn in the afternoon helps generate body heat overnight. Make sure protein levels stay high and that hens have access to fresh water at all times. Drinkers can freeze in very cold weather, so check them morning and evening.

Autumn is moult season. Most hens lose a significant proportion of their feathers and stop laying while their body puts its energy into feather regrowth. Feathers are almost entirely protein, so hens going through moult benefit from a higher-protein diet. Mealworms are a popular supplement during this period. See our guide to chicken moult for more on how to support your flock through it.

Spring is when egg production picks up again as daylight hours increase. Hens often free-range more as the weather improves and will naturally supplement their diet with grass shoots, invertebrates and fresh plant material. Keep layers pellets available as normal and top up grit if it has run low over winter.

Summer brings its own challenges. Hens can go off their feed in very hot weather. Watermelon and cucumber help with hydration. Make sure drinkers are in a shaded spot and topped up frequently, as hens drink significantly more in warm weather.

Water: the thing keepers underestimate most

Water is not a supplement. It is the most important thing you provide for your hens, and it is the one that is most easily overlooked.

A hen that goes without fresh water for even a few hours on a hot summer day can drop egg production noticeably and may take days to recover fully. Hens drink more than most people expect, particularly in warm weather and during periods of heavy lay.

Clean drinkers at least once a week as a minimum. Algae, slime and debris build up quickly in summer and hens will drink less if the water is not clean. In hot weather, rinse drinkers every couple of days. Position drinkers in the shade where possible to slow algae growth.

In winter, check drinkers morning and evening for ice. A frozen drinker means your hens have had nothing to drink since the water froze, which is a problem even in cold weather.

If you are looking for drinkers that are easy to clean and hard to tip over, our chicken feeders and drinkers collection covers everything from simple plastic drinkers to nipple and cup systems.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can chickens eat kitchen scraps?

UK regulations currently prohibit feeding kitchen scraps that have been prepared in a kitchen where meat was also handled. This covers most household kitchens and applies regardless of whether the scraps themselves contain meat. The rule is intended to reduce the risk of disease, not to prohibit vegetables or fruit. Many keepers do feed vegetable peelings and garden leftovers, but it is worth knowing the regulatory position. If you are feeding fresh fruit or vegetables that have not been in a meat-preparation environment, the rules are less clear-cut. When in doubt, stick to purpose-made treats such as mealworms and seeds.

What is the difference between layers pellets and mash?

Both are complete feeds with the same nutritional content. Layers pellets are compressed into small cylinders and create less waste. Mash is finely ground and looser in texture. Some hens prefer mash, particularly when mixed with warm water in cold weather. Pellets are the more practical choice for most backyard keepers. Neither is nutritionally superior to the other.

Do chickens need grit if they free-range?

Yes. Free-ranging hens will pick up some flint grit naturally from the ground, but rarely in sufficient quantities, and the amount varies enormously depending on your soil type and garden surface. Calcium requirements for laying hens are significant and unlikely to be met by foraging alone. Keep both insoluble grit and oyster shell available in separate containers regardless of whether your hens free-range.

How much should I feed my chickens each day?

A laying hen needs around 120–150g of layers pellets per day. For a flock of six hens, that is roughly 750g to 900g daily. If you feed ad-lib using a covered feeder, your hens will regulate this reasonably well themselves. If you feed at set times, weigh out the appropriate quantity for your flock size. Adjust for any supplementary treats and for the extra food hens tend to need in cold weather.

Ready to stock up on feed and treats?

Browse our poultry feed and treats collection for layers pellets, mash, mixed corn, mealworms, oyster shell grit and a full range of supplements. Everything is chosen for backyard laying flocks, and if you are not sure which feed type suits your hens, we are happy to help.